Dangriga -Garifuna

Dangriga -Garafuna, originally uploaded by fiddlesarah.

I am in love this country. Not near enough time here to really get to know all that i want to know. The country is rich in traditions and culture and music. The amount of diversity blows my mind! We have had quite extreme experiences. There is so much light, joy, and heart here but it is not to say that there is not a dark side as well. Our friends that we have made here are amazingly lovely people.The embassy people really were awesome, they were so fun to hang out with and introduced us into the some of the really special parts of this country. Ms. Zoe engineered our performance at the Menonnite community and our meeting with the legendary Paul Nabor the greatest living Paranda artist.

We made our way down to Dangriga to play at the Garifuna Museum. Stopped off in dangriga town to have lunch at a local spot by the water. Things take awhile here, which means more hang time, which i love. Sean and I stepped out on the street to see what was happenin' and we were greeted by some local fellas. Charlie was one character that had lived in NY (we get that a lot down here) he was trying to hussle tourist for a boat ride out to the islands. But was a friendly soul. Then a big man with a beer in his hands came up quite abruptly and asked if sean was a blood. He said he was a crypt and then started a little rant about some wierd stuff and walked off. Then i was greeted by nolan, he was a young fella. He took me over to see the fisherman catches, he told me the story of his father and his pelican. Apparently the pelicans were made with one flaw. They get cataracts from the pressure of hitting the water all the time. Eventually both eyes are infected which blinds them and thus they starve to death. And so many realie on humans to feed them. Nolands dad was always able to be spotted out in his boat because he had a giant pelican with him. And when his dad went to Belize city his pelican followed him all the way there. Sweet story and said with so much love.
Then off we went to the much awaited Garafuna museum. It was hot, humid day, no way to escape the heat, because we were playing outside. The children couldn't either, there was a tent for them to stand under but there were to many to fit underneath it.
These children were beautiful. They came out and sang the Garafuna national anthem.

We performed and it was really difficult to tell if we were getting through or not to them. There were many dry faces in the audience, they had no expression at all on their faces. They were teenagers, that can definitely account for some of it. But i couldn't tell whether they really couldn't connect to what we were doing or if it's a cultural thing that i don't get? But, the adults always are so thankful to have us. They are so happy that we are exposing the kids to music other than hip-hop and Reggaeton. We are trying to convey that the old stuff is important, it's got stories that important to remember and to give respect to the older cultures. The old guys playing traditional music are gems in the middle of the dark caves of Belize. They play out of necessity to express themselves and tell a story from their soul.
After our performance we got to hear some music Garifun community. It was fascinating one man play Quadrilles 1-5, they were English in origin for sure. The Garifuna people are most noted by their resistance of Colonization of the British. Facinating. Then we heard "Brother David" he sang our favorite song that we know sing at any chance we can get called "Belizean Products" I thought at first he was saying "Belizean buttocks". This also brought me joy.

We made Mennonite history last night

Spanish Look-out Mennonite Community, originally uploaded by fiddlesarah.

We performed last night in a mennonite community called Spanish Look-out, This community started about 50 years ago in Belize. They originally fled from Holland and Belgium in the 1500s to escape persecution, and eventually resettled in belize by way of Mexico and Canada. They speak Low German, very old german that was developed in the 16th or 17th century. Unlike other Mennonite communities that shun technology, Spanish Lookout is mechanized, and specializes in auto parts. Along with auto parts, Spanish Lookout is a major producer of dairy, poultry, vegetables and cattle produce, supplying the majority of the country with these commodities. Belize’s most popular chicken, Quality Chicken, is located in Spanish Lookout. Western Dairy, Belize’s only commercial production of milk is also located in the town. Spanish Lookout has been one of the few exporters of crude oil within Belize.

The Mennonites have not had outsiders into there community. We were the first EVER to come into their community and perform! It's pretty major. It was an amazing experience for many reasons.
Firstly I have never been in such a religous setting, it reminded me of the hassidic community in Brooklyn. The Szatmar Hassid's that are from Sighet Romania that came and have preserved their traditions from a very certain place and time and they haven't changed a bit.
It's facinating. I have admiration for their committment to their beliefs and the amount of intense community building that enables communities like the hassids and the mennonites to exist.
I'm processing this all as I write... but it seems not sustainable to be so disconnected from the enviroment that one is living. In the situation with the Mennonites they have almost completley taken over the poultry and dairy production in this region and also produce oil. They don't pay taxes. Meanwhile there are tons of very poor native people here that don't have work or land. But it seems as though the Mennonites live harmoniously with all the natives. No one seems to have any bad sentiment. And historically all the various ethnicities that lived here have maintained their cultural identity peacefully. It's really inspiring that that can happen.

So last night when we performed in their community it meant there was curiosity and interest in the outside world which is a good thing. It was a funny thing that i did not know before we played but their religion does not allow dancing,i made a couple invites for them to dance, no one did. But there were people saying that their whole bodies were moving inside even though they were sitting still. Are we the gateway drug to sin?? Will they be dancing when they get our CD home??
I felt their energy really connected to us throughout the whole concert. They didn't respond with visual clues but i could feel it. Like I felt like what they were experiencing was for the first time this sense of some sort of emotionn that was really en-living.

We made history last night!


As we were leaving on of the women said now next time you come you must learn German. I replied uhh.. ok. She said, if you make excuses you get whippings. Och...

Ms. Leela Vernon The Queen of Brukdown

Ms. Leela Vernon The Queen of Brukdown, originally uploaded by fiddlesarah.

Mr. Peters is the King of Brukdown and Ms. Leela Vernon is the Queen. She performed with us at the Earth Day Celebration in Guanacaste National Park. She is a powerful performer, such a beautiful soul. She is a Kriol, as they spell it. Kriol was historically spoken by the Kriols, a population of mainly African and British ancestry. However, most Belizean Garifunas, Mestizos, Maya, and other ethnic groups speak Kriol as at least a second language, and it is the only true common language among all groups.

Pallotti High School

Pallotti High School , originally uploaded by fiddlesarah.

We played at a Catholic High school this afternoon. And these girls rocked. We got in they instantly were screaming and clapping and holdin' down the chairs with attitude. The friendliness of everyone is blowing my mind. Girls had big bright smiles and warm playful energy. This was my most favorite workshop that we've done. Heading out tonight for a dance party down the street.

LOVE TV

I am in love with Belize. It's hot and humid all the colors are bright here there's water all around us and there's a vibrant street culture. There's guys playing checkers, and guys playing cards, kids hawking patties, women cutting up fruit and bunch of others just hanging out. It's soooo laid back i can't even tell you. I admire it and think i need more of that attitude more in my life.
We started this morning with LOVE TV. Two lovely Carribean ladies interviewed us, they were so hilarious. They were dancing to our music and singing along but if the camera's shot their way the would stop instantly. funny. We got a caller who called in a request for "oh susannah". Everyone loves country and gospel music here. It's such a change from Nicaragua, everyone speaks english for one and they have a love for country songs, liek what country songs are about they love it.
We were asked the question, what would we say to young people that are wanting to be musicians like us, what encouragement could we give them. Sean answered beautifully, he talked about tracing history in todays music, be it rock, reggae, dancehall get the roots and stories. Because the traditional music here is getting lost and it's sooo beautiful. Garifuna, Punto Rock, Brukdown. It was a difficult question i thought because when compared to what we are doing, it's not fair. We come from this previlaged country, aggghh, it's so hard to be on the other side of this whole thing.
Sean and I took a much need walk today into town. Need to have time in the streets, with the folks that make this town. It was great. We first stopped in a music store and were greeted by such charming guys that told us so much about the traditional music scene here. This is where sean first bought Mr. Peter's CD. Then we went off and some fry cake and sausage in this rusty old building over looking the river. We ran in to Mr. Peters on the street hawking his CD's. As we walked we came across a school of elementary students. We asked if we could come back and play music for them. THis school was intense, there were 500 children there, and the building was not huge at all. The rooms were separated by chalk boards and the students were nearly back to back with desks, lots and lots of children. If we can we'll play there next week. On our way back this child on a bike was trying to sell us something, but we couldn't make out what he was saying, he was like this young boy traped in an old man's body. you'd expect him to be this sprite young spirit but instead he was serious and soft spoken. I asked to see what he was selling it it was patties in a bucket on the handlebars of his bike. Then i asked if he sang any songs, we were in search of a childrens song. Asked if he sang any in the street when he played, and he just dryly said no.

Belize City and the King of Brukdown

Well we arrived and played a gig in Belize. Had a rough morning with queasy stomaches, probably was due to the fact we only got a couple of hours of rest before flying off this mornign at 4am. We had quite a surprise at this gig. The most famous Brukdown player, Mr. Peters was mentioned at our briefing this morning when we arrived. Sean knew of his music from when he was here last. He was raving about him to Denise from the embassy. We get to the gig and who has the embassy brought but Mr. Peters and his son. They came to see us and got right up and played will the circle be unbroken and then we got to play a few of his songs as well. He's a man in is 80's, put out ton of albums and is traveling to World music fest in Chicago in august as well as Central Park, i think. Perhaps i'll get him over for a dinner at my house. It was quite a treat to have him play with us. If it hadn't been for him the gig wouldn't have been all that fun. Apparently the Belize crowds are pretty reserved takes a lot to get them off their feet. We have our work cut out for us. Might be time to pull out the Virginia Reel. Off to sleep, it's been a busy week and tomorow starts at 6:00am.

Zacarias Guerra Orphanage

We played at an orphanage this morning and the Ruben Dario Theatre this evening. Which is an interesting progression, from the poorest rice and beans to the biggest chandeliers. The orphanage was super nice. The children where incredibly responsive to us. They all got hambone. We played John Brown's and one of the boys got up and started dancing and through the course of the song proceeded to ask every girl in the audience to dance with him and none accepted, it was like a funny comedy routine between the male and female gender. The girls acted dramatically shy and hard to get while the macho dancing guy was ever so confident. They were all very healthy and spirited. i did not know what to expect when arriving but was pleasantly surprised.